Design, Petwear Sections Debut at January 2023 Edition of Pitti Uomo – WWD
The move reflects the increased cross-pollination and convergence the two categories have with fashion, as well as their growing relevance in consumers’ minds and shopping habits.
Agostino Poletto, general director of Pitti Immagine, said the choice falls within the frame of the winter fair’s theme, “Pittiway,” and is hinged on responses to the global uncertainties looming over fashion and society at large.
Depicting the fashion landscape, he said, included opening Pitti Uomo up to neighboring industries that are gaining traction and are increasingly top of mind for fashion buyers.
“Pitti Uomo can serve as a compass and our ambition is to be a white canvas open to different possibilities,” he said.
The design section, called “The Sign,” will flank the Superstyling area inside the Sala delle Nazioni at the Fortezza da Basso, and display 11 brands, while “PittiPets,” dedicated to petwear and accessories, takes over the Polveriera space with 15 brands on display.
Here, WWD lists some of the highlights of the new Pitti Uomo sections.
Reimagining everyday objects with an ironic and provocative twist is the bread and butter of the artistic duo behind IAMMI.
Portuguese designer Nicolau dos Santos and French Italian art director Stephanie Blanchard joined forces to develop unconventional pieces that blur the lines between the classic and the contemporary, experimenting with different techniques and materials in the process. They deploy glass, ceramic, foam rubber and marble with the ultimate goal to uncover a different side of common items. Cue to their “B-fora” vase, which ironically reveals what has been hidden for centuries beneath the classic Greek amphora: Its sinuous B-side.
Available in different materials and colors, the B-fora collections are divided into open editions and limited ones, both signed, certified and entirely made in Italy with handmade finishes. As per other IAMMI projects, custom-made versions are also available.
In addition to creating its own designs, IAMMI works on commission, creating one-off furniture and interiors.
A simple concept defines the minimal and functional designs developed by Situér Milano: folding instead of welding. Registered and patented, this manufacturing process has become a trademark of the company’s metal furniture while also pushing an eco-friendly approach, as it reduces CO2 emissions, cuts energy consumption and considerably shortens the production cycle.
The firm’s Millennial founders Federica Paoli and Biagio Castellani introduced the first steel designs with the recognizable curvature three years ago, but the brand has deep roots in metalworking as Castellani’s family business produces industrial shelving in Tuscany.
Initially, the duo started from shelving itself, reinterpreting its versatile structure also with colored finishes, before eventually expanding their scope to introduce racks, drawers and sliding doors. Over the years, Paoli and Castellani added other products made of tubular steel and curved brass, such as coat hangers, benches, tables, homeware and accessories, which all share the industrial appeal.
The brand’s designs are featured in stores ranging from Emilio Pucci to the Civiconove concept store in Milan, and have served in show sets and presentations for labels including Sunnei, Annakiki and Christian Pellizzari. Priced between 400 euros to 1,200 euros, all items can be customizable in color at the brand’s Milan showroom in Via Vela, 1.
Last year, the company also released the LG-22 collection developed with architect Lorenzo Guzzini, which saw Situér Milano’s signature metal structures be combined with other materials, such as glass, wood and sustainable fabrics.
Florence-based Studio Bojola collaborates with companies for services ranging from object and spatial design to creative direction and consultancy. Its tie-ups with artisanal companies in Italy has resulted in luxury custom projects that aimed to exalt local craftsmanship as well as the purity of the high-end materials deployed, encompassing ceramics, marble, semiprecious stones and crystal.
For instance, the studio’s sculptural aesthetic was best embodied by the collaboration with Baldi Home Jewels on bespoke, one-of-a-kind tubs made by carving single blocks of marbles and destined for private residences; by the partnership with Savio Firmino on plush sofas experimenting with the art of drapery via pleated designs in fine velvet and leather, and by the tie-up with Ceramiche Ceccarelli on artistic ceramics.
For those hoping for more approachable options, the Cristallo collection of crystal vases help elevate any space with their charming play of light and vibrant colors, ranging in price from 150 euros to 770 euros. The vases come in archival shapes reprised from an historic artisan glassware from the Tuscan city of Empoli, which has been in business since 1945.
Studio Bojola’s focus on materials is embedded in the background of its founder Luca Bojola, who launched the namesake studio in 1983 after piling up years of experience working as creative director in the world of ceramics. He is joined today by fashion and interior designer Margherita Bojola, who splits her time between the family business and UND, a sustainable swimwear and activewear brand she cofounded. A Polimoda graduate, she formerly worked in the fashion industry for brands including Salvatore Ferragamo and Ermanno Scervino.
The House of Lyria
Inspiration can come from anywhere for textile connoisseur Riccardo Bruni, the creative force behind The House of Lyria. The brand is part of Lyria, the company Bruni founded in 2002 with Nino Cerruti before becoming the sole owner in 2016 and who has been working with international designers and fashion houses for more than two decades, creating textiles for names including Alber Elbaz, Comme des Garçons, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Giorgio Armani, Jil Sander and Yohji Yamamoto.
In 2021, the company made its official debut in the world of interiors with the launch of a throws and cushions collection and developed fabrics for private residences, yachts, boutique hotels and other commercial projects. The House of Lyria’s collaborations result in customized furniture or in revamping existing pieces with its rich textiles.
Nodding to wabi-sabi, the Japanese concept of finding beauty in imperfection, Bruni’s aesthetic is tinged with understated elegance, rustic charm, raw details and natural colors, which are obtained using organic sources such as coffee, tea and ashes, in lieu of chemical dyes.
Travels around the world, old photography books or memories of his grandparents’ linen sheets inspire Bruni, who enhances natural fibers such as wool, linen and cotton via unusual combinations and unconventional loom techniques aimed at creating interesting textures and extending fabrics’ life. Prices start at 190 euros for pillows up to more than 1,000 euros for special throws.
True Design’s large catalogue covers families of seating, tables, storage furniture, bookcases, dividing panels and accessories, all designed with a functional approach and inventive touches to furnish workspaces, lounges, homes and hospitality spaces.
The Made in Italy brand was launched in 2009 by young entrepreneurs Alessandro and Lorenzo Maniero, but stems from the 30-year experience of TMA, a company that specializes in turnkey supplies for theaters and auditoriums and counts Milan’s Teatro Alla Scala and Museo del Novecento as well as Venice’s Palazzo del Cinema among its clients.
In 2014, True Design began a collaboration with architect Aldo Parisotto, who serves as the company’s art director, but products are also conceived and developed by designers such as Christophe Bourban, Debora Mansur and Defne Koz as well as studios including E-ggs, Orlandini Design and Favaretto and Partners, to name a few.
Highlights include the “Fender” armchairs and sofas defined by the contrast between tubular steel structures and soft polyurethane foam; the “Abisko” seating family with rounded silhouettes cut sharp by a wooden base; the “Patch” collection of sound-absorbing dividing panels made of suspended geometric elements that can rotate freely to ensure privacy without isolating a person from the surrounding environment, and the “DNA” wood bench in a helix shape, that can also be upholstered in leather or fabric.
Anna Bussolotto’s dogs fit in a bag. Her two dachshunds, Quintale and Hermione, inspired her to launch the 2.8 (Duepuntootto) pet accessories brand that offers chic and practical beds and cushions, leashes and collars catering to owners who want these objects to easily blend in with their home interiors.
Established in 2016, the brand draws its name from the 2.8 camera aperture, photography being an overarching theme, as in the name of products inspired by masters of photography such as Annie Leibovitz and Steve McCurry.
All handcrafted in Italy using natural materials, including luxurious Casentino wool, organic cotton and recycled wool, the eco-minded pet accessories are designed to enhance dogs’ well-being and facilitate maintenance. The range includes 506-euro ivory white bouclé wool tote bags suitable for small-sized dogs and the “Yousuf” cushion crafted from recycled wool, retailing at 335 euros.
Bussolotto even introduced leather pouches designed to hold an Apple AirTag that be attached to a collar or harness, to avoid missing one’s puppy, while the Greenie line takes 2.8’s sustainable commitment a step further by replacing leather details with animal-friendly alternatives, including cotton, faux leather or Oeko Tex-certified microfiber collars and leashes.
Savile Row-obsessed pet owners can have their dogs outfitted in tartan raincoats inspired by British garb while those appreciative of Japanese culture can buy a black silk kimono for their shih tzus.
Italian petwear brand Lollipet follows fashion trends and reinterprets them for four-legged friends aiming to provide a couture-level experience to pet owners. The range spans from handknitted cable knit sweaters to princess-y sequin tops and tulle full skirts, as well as vintage-looking denim jackets and fake Astrakhan harnesses.
In addition to its ready-to-wear collections Lollipet offers a bespoke and made-to-measure service that allows a customer to choose from a wide range of textiles and materials, including faux fur and Casentino wool.
All handmade in Italy, petwear in price ranges from 45 to 160 euros and is complemented by tweed and Casentino collars and leashes as well as cushions and beds, including an upscale version done in collaboration with Pet & Chic priced at more than 1,000 euros that mimics a two-seat sofa with wooden feet.
Ileana Ciamarone and Daria Lo Giudice took their friendship to a new level when the latter adopted her dog Omnia less than three years ago and found herself craving pet accessories she couldn’t find on the market.
Together with Ciamarone, who has had a dog, Gioia, for more than 13 years, in July 2022 they jumpstarted Omniagioia, a sustainable-minded petwear brand.
Based on the principles of the circular economy, the streamlined range includes a dog bowl, tower-like biscuit container, dog scooper and pet waste bag holder crafted from recycled PET-derived plastic via 3D printing.
Sitting at the intersection of functionality and design, the origami-like objects are made to order as part of the brand’s green pledge and comprise a rPET sweater nodding to Issey Miyake’s Pleats Please gear.
An understated color palette of milk white, sage and lime greens, ocean blue and black define the first collection aptly called “Nature.” The lineup retails between 24 euros and 220 euros.
The Painter’s Wife
Rosana Agrelo and Josep Pintor adopted their dog Pepa in 2015 after finding her abandoned in the parking lot of their apartment building in Spain. The rescued dog inspired the couple — she a veterinarian, he a contemporary art expert and art director — to combine their know-how and introduce in 2017 a lifestyle pet-geared label offering dog clothing and accessories.
Often playful — as in Breton stripe T-shirts available for dogs and humans, color-blocked hooded raincoats and colorful puffers — the collection is crafted in Spain’s Galicia region, on the northwest Atlantic Ocean coastline and in neighboring Portugal.
In sync with the brand’s mission, items are embedded with sustainable features and are crafted from locally sourced materials, especially GOTs-certified cotton and GRS-approved recycled polyester.
The brand donates part of the proceeds of its “Sonia” range of leashes, collars and harnesses to Yaracan, a Spanish association that develops dog-assisted intervention programs for children and the elderly.
United Pets is no novice. The brand was introduced in 1999 after Costantino Psilogenis met his wife Cristina Rivolta and her four-legged friend, a dalmatian named Chico. The most immediate need for Psilogenis was to be surrounded by pet objects that could blend in with their home interiors.
The couple brought on board designers Giulio Iacchetti and Ilaria Gibertini to help them lay out a design ethos. Combining their flair for playful design objects with functionality and durable materials, they have invited a range of world-renowned designers to create their own pieces, be it Roberto Rago and Alessandro Gorla’s “Pancuccia,” a small seat with a bed for one’s dog, or Andrea Vecera’s Flintstones-esque food bowl with spikes.
The brand teamed with design firm Seletti for a four-piece range splashed with patterns inspired by the Maldives, Alps, New York and Hollywood, the latter renamed Doggymood. It follows a range of premium tie-ups with the likes of Emporio Armani, Save the Duck and Qeeboo.